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Interview with the fashion designer – cocAEmka

Interview with Ewa Polkowska, creative director of the cocAEmka start-up brand who cares about sustainability and innovation in the textile industry. She graduated from Sustainable Fashion Design and Technology at Copenhagen School of Design with a Master’s degree focused in Fashion/Apparel Design from Designskolen Kolding.

What does cocAEmka nickname mean?

CocAemka is a concept of creating aesthetics. The nickname comes from my studies in Denmark where I was guided by pure Scandinavian aesthetics based on innovation in the textile industry, that is all in the spirit of sustainability. Also Stella MCCartney has huge impact on my way of thinking. She is my role model in this matter. 

Skirt and shoes from cocaemka, photographer Hanna Kantor

The strangest material you made of is…

Innovative materials have become my greatest passion during my studies in Copenhagen.  During my master’s thesis I had the opportunity to work with biotechnologist Birgit Bonefeld on my last project. We tested fibers made of milk, soy, cinnamon, almonds and polyester obtained from plastic bottles. Material from orange peel, pineapple leather and hemp thread impressed me greatly. 

What do you think about the phenomenon of capsule collection in case of major brands?

I think it all depends on the brand’s strategy. Nowadays, even fast fashion labels produce capsule collections twice per season or a year. This is a conscious step to change. It’s time when niche brands have more opportunities to make their products unique and tell by them stories to the client. 

Is Poland ready for a real haute couture? 

Haute couture is a department of exclusive tailoring and the total opposite of ready to wear fashion. Great quality fabrics and perfect finishing are determinants of this sewing technique. Unfortunately, not everyone can use this concept. It’s protected by a special law. The French Ministry of Industry decide which fashion house can use it. A decision about belonging to this elite group is made before each season. Updated list of lucky ones appears on the official website Whether Poland is ready for real haute couture depends not only on ourselves. Anyway I believe that positive changes may occur in the future. It’s possible, every goal can be reached. 

In which country do people dress the best and where the worst?

It all depends on the aesthetics we like. Personally, I love the combination of Scandinavian fashion with elements of Italian elegance. 

Are Polish designers supported by institutions?

I would love to answer this question but unfortunately I don’t know what to say. For 9 years I had the opportunity to live in Scandinavia. There I was interested in institutions supporting young designers. I deeply believe that Poland is similar, after all, we are in the European Union. At the moment I am in the process of searching them. 

Interview with Ewa Polkowska @cocaemka by Hanna Kantor @haniakantor

Photos come from and @cocaemka

Hanna Kantor

Hanna Kantor

Founder of OpenCall Magazine. Fashion and commercial photographer. A graduate of Journalism and Photography at the University of Warsaw and Universita degli Studi di Milano. Sleeps long, works even longer.

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