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London Fashion Week: ASHISH, Malan Breton, Paul Costelloe

Manny Lago

ASHISH

If you know London Fashion Week then you know Ashish. Season after season the designer never disappoints with his glitzy sequins and glamour that always leaves spectators starry-eyed and this year was no different.

All I can say about this collection is Groovy Baby. An abundance of fabulous prints grazed the catwalk, zebra, hounds tooth and polka dots all finished in signature Ashish sequins. The collection as a whole was one of fashion fantasies.  Each model was a perfect character – a woman about town off to a date or a friend off to the club.

His new collection will not only ensure his faithful followers embrace him for another season but his new found fan base will surely fall in love with his unique flair for fashion.

 

ph. Hanna Kantor

ph. Hanna Kantor

ph. Hanna Kantor

PAUL COSTELLOE

Starting the shows on Monday for London Fashion Week was the Fashion Week staple that is Paul Costelloe. This year the designer showed at the same venue as the last season namely The Palm Court Ballroom at The Waldorf Hilton Hotel.  This is a beautiful venue that seemed appropriate for the collection.

When entering the venue you were immediately transported to a romantic 70s setting.  The song “Together We Are Beautiful” by Fern Kenney was playing in the background. The Irish designer, who is now 74 years old, showed us a completely innovative collection incorporating his son William’s graphics which graced many of the garments that walked down the catwalk.
Hugging bodysuits and leggings teamed up with snakeskin boots contrasted the classic tailoring and heavy tweeds. The show also included fabulous floral print baby doll dresses and plunging v necks a Paul Costelloe favourite. A completely epic show.Having finished watching the show I headed  backstage and got to meet the creative team.  The Beauty team relayed the following information.

Credit: Makeup By Yin Lee on behalf of AOFMPro Using Dermalogica

This season featured beautifully printed bodysuits which were quite futuristic and paired with Paul’s exquisite tailoring, giving this collection a sporty touch yet keeping the timeless chic style Paul Costelloe is known for. AOFMPro lead artist, Yin Lee wanted to bring the elements of ‘sporty’ and ‘futuristic’ in the makeup this season. To get this look Yin and the team prepped the skin with Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel followed by spritzing the face with Dermalogica Age Smart Antioxidant Hydramist and Active Moist to get a luminous base.

The ethereal skin illuminating foundation and concealer were applied to the skin, followed by a light setting powder. Eyebrows were brushed and filled in with the precision eyebrow pencil. Cheeks were lightly contoured and finished with Crystal Clear Glass Glow Face Highlighter Gold eyeshadow from the electro palette was applied on the eyelid and blended into the socket. To achieve the black futuristic lines the team used the precision liquid eyeliner brushing upwards in the corner and straight lines over the socket line.Lips were glossed with Glass Glow Lip in Prism Rose.*

*All Makeup Kevyn Aucoin

 

 

ph. Tom ohnson

ph. Tom ohnson 

MALAN BRETON

Last season was Mr Breton’s anniversary and it was a complete treat, an overload for the senses.  Live music and a ballet performance paired with an elegant eclectic collection could not have been better.  He definitely left me wanting more. Leaving Tottenham Court Road station I headed to this year’s venue at St George’s in Bloomsbury   an 18th century church in the heart of London and sat his show The Rise of the Phoenix. The smell of incense lingered in the halls as we sat down waiting to be amazed.  Soon the lights went up and the looks came down.

The opening look this year was a beautiful full length pink sequin coat with matching trousers and pink shirt with silver trims.  This set the tone for the collection. Up next were magnificent gowns.  One in particular looked as though it had come out of the Victorian period and was fit for royalty thrown off with reflective silver fabric demonstrating complete innovation.  Gorgeous flapper style pieces came down with beaded fringe leaving all who watched flabbergasted. In the course of the show also featured splendid simple tailoring and menswear looks finished in faux furs and feathers which made bold statements down the catwalk.

Finally the last looked arrived and did not disappoint.  A beautiful electric blue tulle gown with a long train. The drama we all expected from a master designer like Mr Breton. All in all the show was a success and a spectator in the front row commented ” this is food for the soul “.   I for one couldn’t have agreed more, that’s why Malan Breton’s show was my favourite one.