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London, Milan and Paris Fashion Week 2025: A Subjective Perspective

Hanna Kantor

LONDON FASHION WEEK

European fashion week festival starts as always with London Fashion Week which has always been a playground for the bold, the unconventional, and the avant-garde. This February, the city’s runways once again proved that British fashion remains a force to be reckoned with, blending tradition with audacious innovation. However, while some collections left audiences in awe, others felt like tired reimaginings of trends we’ve seen too many times before.

The Hits: Creativity at Its Peak

A triumph was seen in Richard Quinn’s latest showcase, where romantic florals clashed with punk-inspired cuts, making for an exhilarating contrast. Quinn’s ability to balance nostalgia with modern rebellion remains unmatched, and this collection was no exception.

 

Daniel Lee’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection for Burberry, showcased at London Fashion Week, was a masterful blend of the brand’s storied heritage with contemporary design elements. Presented at the historic Tate Britain, the collection drew inspiration from the British countryside, featuring deep, moody hues like burgundy, forest green, and midnight black. Rich velvets and luxe leathers were crafted into bold, oversized silhouettes, evoking a sense of timeless grandeur with a modern twist.

Lee’s ability to modernize Burberry’s heritage was evident in his thoughtful approach to balancing the brand’s past with its future. The collection was both creative and evocative, reflecting a deep understanding of the brand’s legacy while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion.

London Fashion Week February 2025 was, as always, a mix of brilliance and mediocrity. The emerging talents injected much-needed excitement into the event, proving that innovation is alive and well. However, some of the bigger names felt stagnant, raising the question of whether they can keep up with the new wave of designers redefining fashion. One thing is certain—London remains a city where fashion dares to challenge, but only time will tell which ideas truly stand the test of time.

MILAN FASHION WEEK

Milan Fashion Week organised from February 25 to March 3, 2025, showcased a dynamic blend of traditional Italian luxury and contemporary innovation. Two big brands celebrated their anniversaries: 

Fendi’s 100th Anniversary: Celebrating a century of fashion excellence, Fendi presented a collection that honored its rich heritage while looking forward to the future. 

Dsquared2’s 30th Anniversary: Marking three decades in the industry, Dsquared2 delivered a vibrant show, featuring a surprise performance by Grammy Award-winning rapper Doechii and City Girls’ JT, blending fashion with entertainment

At Milan Fashion Week Gucci presented its Fall/Winter 2025 collection amidst a period of leadership transition. The show featured tailored separates, gender-fluid fabrics, and muted glamour, reflecting a blend of archival motifs and contemporary designs.

Notably, the collection opened with a look reminiscent of the 2021 film „House of Gucci,” featuring chunky faux fur, a lilac lace bodysuit, a wool pencil skirt, and oversized aviator glasses.

In the absence of a permanent creative director, Gucci’s designs leaned on heritage elements, aiming to redefine its creative identity during this transitional phase

PARIS FASHION WEEK

Paris Fashion Week, held from March 3 to 11, 2025, showcased a dynamic blend of innovation, nostalgia, and sustainability, setting the tone for the upcoming fashion season.

Nostalgic Revivals

Designers drew inspiration from past decades, reimagining classic styles with modern twists. Dior paid homage to John Galliano’s iconic designs, blending nostalgia with contemporary elements. Similarly, Chloé resurrected the popular Paddington bag and Noughties styles, appealing to both new and returning fashion enthusiasts. 

Sustainable Practices

British designer Stella McCartney who for few seasons already shows her collections in Paris, led the charge in eco-conscious fashion, advocating for sustainability by incorporating innovative materials and ethical production methods into her collection. 

Saint Laurent presented dagger stilettos and 1980s-inspired ensembles, blending sharp tailoring with bold silhouettes. The collection was lauded for its masterful blend of traditional Saint Laurent elements with modern twists. Vaccarello’s focus on the brand’s signature styles, especially the tailored power suits, was evident. Structured pieces with sharp lapels, oversized coats, and strong, masculine cuts were tailored to accentuate the female form, embodying power, elegance, and a hint of rebellion.

Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2025 collection, showcased at Paris Fashion Week, presented a harmonious blend of retro elegance and contemporary flair. The designs drew inspiration from 1950s Hitchcockian aesthetics, seamlessly integrating streetwear elements with classic tailoring.

 

Louis Vuitton’s Women’s Fall-Winter 2025 Collection, designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, showcased a fusion of futuristic elements with 1970s aesthetics. The collection featured go-faster stripes and blouson jackets, blending contemporary and retro styles.

 

Balenciaga grunge dark aesthetic pushed fashion boundaries by blending classic and modern sport elements, offering revolutionary designs that challenged traditional fashion codes.

Valentino under the direction of Alessandro Michele, blossoms with creativity both shown in fashion show as in the fashion designs delivering bold retro-inspired collections in unique settings, captivating audiences with vibrant pieces. 

As we wrap up another fashion month, February 2025’s fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, and London have proven to be an exhilarating display of boldness, tradition, and innovation. Each city showcased its unique strengths, yet the common thread was the remarkable ability of designers to balance modernity with their rich heritages. Paris continues to set the bar high with a stunning array of collections that merge heritage with modern flair. Milan, as expected, demonstrated why it remains at the heart of luxury fashion. Known for its craftsmanship and attention to detail, Milan offered a harmonious mix of old-world opulence and modern experimentation.London Fashion Week always offers something a little more experimental, and February 2025 was no different. From classic British tailoring to avant-garde experimentation, London’s designers were not afraid to push boundaries while embracing a certain flair for the dramatic.

 

 

AUTHOR: Hanna Kantor

Founder of OpenCall Magazine & fashion photographer. A graduate of Journalism and Photography at the University of Warsaw and Universita degli Studi di Milano.